Encountering Busan, the wartime capital filled with joys and sorrows of refugees

On June 25, 1950, the Korean War began with a surprise attack on neighboring South Korea at dawn. Unprepared to fight, South Korea lost its capital, Seoul, in three days after the war broke out. The South Korean government had no option but to retreat and declared Busan as the wartime capital on August 18, 1950. Although it has been almost 70 years since then, Busan still has traces of the war. Let us follow these historical traces filled with joys and sorrows. Wartime Capital Trail Tombstone Cultural Village - Cloud Observatory – Choi Min-Shik Gallery – Train House Artistic Cultural Experience Ground - Provisional Capital Memorial Hall – Seokdang Museum In Ami-dong, Seo-gu, Busan, there is Tombstone Culture Village, where you can have a glimpse of the kind of life that refugees experienced. Away from the war, many Koreans fled to Busan without a plan and settled down at the foot of a mountain, with a cemetery built by Japanese during the Japanese occupation of Korea. At that time, it was difficult to build a house because there were hardly any materials. Nevertheless, as a way to stay out of the wind and rain, they built shelters on top of the tombstones in the cemetery. You can still find traces at the alleys in Tombstone Culture Village. In a 3 min walking distance from Tombstone Culture Village, you can reach the “Cloud Observatory” with a panoramic view of mountainside road across Ami-dong. Refugees from the Korean War built their homes on hillsides, despite not owning any lands. As you observe the houses standing side by side along the alleys that are too narrow, even for one person to pass through, you will see and feel the broken and exhausted faces of the refugees. In a town located right below the observatory, Choi Min-Shik Gallery, one of the must-visit places, vividly portrays the lives of the refugees. Choi Min-Shik is a first-generation Korean documentary photographer based in Busan, particularly known for taking photographs of people going about their daily lives. In this gallery, you can find various post-war Busan photos, including a woman selling goods at Jagalchi Market and a child with a bright smile on his sooty face. These old photos will let you see and reflect the hardship that the refugees underwent to survive, as they hold on to a dim light of hope, despite feeling exhausted and shattered by the event. Located next to Choi Min-Shik Gallery, Train House Artistic Cultural Experience Ground is also a must-visit place. The words “Train House” came from several people who lived in a small room after dividing into many sections similar to train couches. This place signifies the poor conditions that the refugees from the Korean War had to endure to survive. Currently, it is used as an experience center and a resting area for local residents and tourists. The Provisional Capital Memorial Hall is a 10 min walk along the ridge from Train House Artistic Cultural Experience Ground. It was formerly used as a presidential residence for about 1,000 days, while Busan was the wartime capital. Furthermore, it was where Rhee Syngman attended to the affairs of state. There is also an exhibition hall with an extensive collection of replicas that invites visitors, including children, to show the lives of the refugees during the Korean War. As you walk from the Provisional Capital Memorial Hall to Dong-A University, you will find the Seokdang Museum. Originally used as the Temporary Capital Government Building for the wartime capital, it is now transformed into a museum that outlines Busan’s history. Widely known as Busan’s most famous modern building with red bricks and giwa roof tiles, it has great historical significance because it shows modern and contemporary Korean politics and society—from the Japanese occupation to the Korean War. Enjoying Busan’s blue ocean and skyscraper is a great way to travel around Busan. Nevertheless, if you are interested in learning about Busan’s history, which is closely linked to the modern and contemporary history of Korea, then visit and walk along the Korean War Heritage Trail.